Saturday, September 11, 2010

Maple and Cherry Desk- Top

After the glue has cured the top is flattened with the thickness sander.

Snipe is removed with the stroke sander and the 120 belt.

An edge is jointed straight and square to the top.

Then it's ripped to final width.

It's too wide for my crosscut sled and too long for my tablesaw fence, so it's cut to rough length with a jigsaw. The cut is finished with a router and a bearing guided straight bit. I climb cut the right corner to avoid the grain tearing out.

The top is then given an edge profile, and final sanded with the stroke sander to 220.


  1. I am impressed that you can manage a board that wide or should I say tall through your jointer. Do you have a tall auxilary fence attached to your jointer?

  2. No, I just use the stock fence. My left hand pressures the top against the fence, and I pull it across the jointer with my right hand. It is important to keep the pulling hand low on the stock for stability.

  3. BTW that looks like a mighty fine thickness sander.

  4. I don't use it for pure sanding as much as I used to, thanks to handplanes, but for making large panels flat and smooth, for making veneers and thin stock for bent laminations, and for tearout free dimensioning of figured wood it's invaluable.


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I'm a woodworker on the Canadian prairie.