Saturday, March 6, 2010

Five Minute Bench 7

I'm enjoying this, practise dovetails are boring, but making bench drawer fittings is fun.

The joinery is a little faster everytime.

A buddy gave me his old pair of 1.5x reading glasses. I'm a little bummed to say they help. I caught my reflection out of the corner of my eye and I thought my Dad had dropped by the shop. Sigh.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Joe Dog

I think that the best finish for a bench top is no finish. A bare top grips stock better than one under a film. The only real problem I have with a bare top is its weakness for spills. I try to avoid accidents, but I want my coffee cup close at hand. I needed a cupholder.

I made strips of Beech, but the tightest curve it would bend without breaking was this:

So I wrapped it in a clean rag, soaked it, and placed it in the microwave.

I took the strip out of the microwave, bent it in the opposite direction to the way it came out, soaked the cloth, and re-steamed the strip. I repeated this until the strip would bend to the radius I required.

The parts were left to dry overnight on the form, and for a few weeks after before gluing. The centre ring is glued as it's spun around the form.

A bungee makes a good clamp.

The rest is glued together, the end trimmed square, and a Lee Valley Tenon Cutter makes the tenon.

Some router work, a chisel, and some sandpaper later, I have:


Table Making- Finish

I disliked the way the outriggers looked, so I profiled the ends before finishing.

The table was finish sanded and blown clean. I don't use stains, I feel they are too close to paint. I do use Watco, Danish Oil, in Dark Walnut. The oil is applied with a foam brush, and wiped off with a clean rag. The rag is a spontaneous combustion hazard. It must be hung or placed flat to dry.

The whole table is done at the same time.

The Watco doesn't hide the walnuts chatoyance and still gives it colour that would naturally bleach out over time. The table is left to dry.

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I'm a woodworker on the Canadian prairie.