The Way I Wood

New Gets

2012-01-15T07:54:00.000-08:00

I'm interested in carving, specifically letter carving. After reading Chris Pye's Lettercarving in Wood I decided to pick up a few tools.

Based on the recomendations of friends, I chose a small selection of Henry Taylor carving tools.

They are hand forged, and a little crude.

The handles are rough, and there are grinding inconsistencies.

The edges are a little rounded, which was irritating when it came time to hone. If you have a chance, examine as many examples for this as you can before selecting one to purchase.

They do take and hold very nice edge. I'm actually a little surprised about how much work can be done between honings.

I also picked up a couple of mallets.

The first is the Veritas Journeyman's Brass Mallet. It's a pretty tool consisting of a solid brass head and a cherry handle.

I am impressed with the overall quality of this mallet, the head and handle seam is flush, and the overall design is clean and pleasing to my eye and hand. I find myself using a variety of grips, holding the handle like a hammer, holding the head in the palm of my hand, or holding it like a pen, and striking with the flat end.

It's a light mallet, and while it's nice for small details and narrow gouges, it's not heavy enough to push larger tools. For that work I bought a Wood is Good 20 oz mallet. It's a good weight for me and the work I want it to do, it's easy to weild and heavy enough to sink a 1" chisel to final depth in one rap.

I haven't come across a traditional Lignum carvers mallet yet, and while at first I wasn't a fan of the urethane head I have come to like it. They are advertised as having a slight give in the material, allowing them to remain in contact longer for better power transmission. In use this give results in a "sticky" sensation, which I like. I have a feeling of control I don't get from hard mallets.

This mallets degree of finish isn't great. The head had rough edges and seam lines, and the handle was rough sanded. The ends still had saw marks from when the blank was cut up. I spent a half hour cleaning it up and turning it into a respectable tool.

Both mallets handles arrived unfinished. I know some people prefer the feel of unfinished wood, but I prefer the smoothness of a top coat. I also don't like how dirty bare wood gets when being handled by working hands, so I removed the brass head, masked off the urethane one, and shot them both with two coats of lacquer. It's an improvement I recommend.

Whoo-Hoo!

2012-01-15T07:52:00.000-08:00

Published again!

Who-hoo!

2011-11-05T11:27:00.000-07:00

Fine Woodworking has included my bench(more here)in their latest issue, Tools and Shops #223, page 83! Here's a link to the online post. I'm pretty excited about it, getting into FWW has been a goal of mine for quite a while now.

Original Sketchup Concept

I've been using the bench for almost two years now. It's performed as I'd hoped. I don't use the ebony guides in the vise for aligning stock, a bevel gauge works better, but I still use them for setting the gauge. The main argument against workbench tool storage is that as soon as you clamp stock to the front of the bench, the drawers are inaccessible. The fear is that a tool will be needed, necessitating the unclamping of the workpiece. This has happened to me a total of three times in the last two years, and moving the part isn't a big deal at all.

I don't use the Tucker very often, the Twin-Screw end vise is the one I use 90% of the time. However, it has saved me a lot of grief from the other 10%. It excels at oddball jobs, and I love it for rasp, spokeshave, and carving work. It's a luxury I'd have a very hard time giving up.

Now that I've used one, I recommend a tool tray highly. Those who complain that they just collect chips don't clean up enough.

There are two things I'd change. I'd like the top a little wider and a little longer. I'd have one less top shallow drawer and I'd apply the space to the bottom largest. I can't get a #7 bench plane to fit unless I grind 1/16" off the top of the iron.

All told I'm very pleased with it. I still catch myself looking at it, and it's a real conversation piece with clients.

Test Drive

2011-10-18T15:36:00.000-07:00

So school's going well, I'm really enjoying it. I'm challenged, and it's fun. I unfortunately don't have much time for the woodshop, but I have been able to make a few shavings.

It turns out that John Economaki is a friend of a friend of mine. Through a tool trade he made, I was able to test drive the Bridge City Tool Works VP-60 Variable Pitch Plane.

This is the Limited Edition Tool for 2005, number 391 of 400.

The frog is adjustable from to 30° to 60°, and the iron is mounted either bevel down or bevel up, giving an attack angle range of 30° to 90°. Lateral adjustments are made by the side wheels.

The iron is impressive, 1/4" thick, 2 1/8" wide, and optically ground on both faces. Lapping only worsens the finish, the only time the back is stoned is when removing a honing burr.

The sides and sole are held together with double dovetails. The sole has adjustable mouths, both before and after the iron.

The adjustments are made with dovetailed gibs, and held with screws.

Cocobolo knob and tote, infilled lever cap and depth adjustment screws.

Rather than a chipbreaker the VP-60 has a articulated lever cap and a pressure bar. The bar clamps down on the iron close to the edge to hold it and dampen vibration.

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This plane performs as promised, and does it while looking good. I was able to take fine shavings in several different situations at their appropriate angle of attack. However, I found making transitions and setting up the plane difficult and time consuming. The lever cap screw requires a setting I would consider quite loose, overtightening causes the sole to lift off the workpiece. It worked fine once I understood this, but it was very frustrating before I did. The articulated lever cap and the pressure bar take some getting used to, and are difficult to dial in when you're inexperienced to the plane. I almost gave up on several occasions. I would've preferred a Norris or Bailey style lateral adjuster over the side wheels, but once accustomed to them they work well.

The VP-60 works well in all types of cutting situations. However, I feel that the switch between angles takes too long to want to do it often. Several dedicated planes could be purchased for the same money. This plane isn't a rational or justifiable purchase by any means, however, that doesn't kill my lust for it. It's beautiful, appreciated by both my wood and metal working friends. I'm fortunate to have been able to try it out. You should see what it can do to birds eye maple.

Whoo-Hoo!

2011-09-13T14:23:00.000-07:00

I'm published!

What's Happening

2011-09-12T19:26:00.000-07:00

Over the last five or six years I have been finding myself more and more interested in the Machinists trade. It stems from my obsession with antique woodworking machinery, while rebuilding them and investigating ways to make parts and do repairs. This summer I decided that it was a good time in my life for a change, so I'm taking a pre-employment machinists course with intent to become a journeyman.
Woodworking isn't my first trade, I spent the first ten years of my working life as an apiculturist. I grew up around honeybees, my earliest clear memory is being stung while watching the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles. We didn't have a honeyhouse at the time, and my parents were extracting in the kitchen.
Beekeeping opened some interesting doors for me. After high school I earned my Certificate of Apiculture at Fairview College, Fairview, Alberta. From there I did some queen rearing and pollination work in California, worked for the largest honey producer in Saskatchewan, and maintained the research colonies and assisted students at Simon Fraser University.
After I returned home to Saskatchewan I decided to persue woodworking. It was my favourite activity by far in high school, I used to feel like I was getting away with a scam because I received credit for doing something I enjoyed. I managed after a lot of pestering to land a job at Works of Art Furniture, the finest local shop. There I've spent the last ten years loving my job and growing my skills.
The last few years have come and gone with a lot of changes. My boss sold his building and moved shop out of town, and has since semi-retired. The local economy is very strong, but was still affected by the recession. Prices for everything have gone up. I have two daughters now. Woodworking for a living was always a tough gig, and it's not getting any easier.
So, I've decided to make a change. I'll ALWAYS be a woodworker, it's far too deep in my soul to be able to stop. However, instead of being my source of income it will be my source of pleasure. I'm actually looking forward to being able to woodwork as a hobbiest, without the pressures of deadlines and profits. I have a head full of designs, techniques, and experiments that I'm excited to persue.
I know my background in woodworking will assist me in the future, and I'm sure that machining will lend me insight into woodworking. They are very similar trades.
I fully intend on maintaining my blog. I have several posts on deck, there are a few projects I haven't shown you and tools I haven't spoken about yet. Later on I hope to show a machinists view of woodworking, and share any revelations I may have. Don't leave yet, it's just getting good.
So, Constant Reader, wish me luck. I start on a new path.

Five Minute Bench 13

2011-08-18T16:52:00.000-07:00

New Gets

2011-08-12T19:46:00.000-07:00

I went camping last week, an activity I try to do at least once a summer. The one or two times in my life that I haven't gone I've felt as though the season has passed me by. It's a necessary event that recharges me and allows me to perservere the cold Saskatchewan winter.

There are a number of items that I pack for a camping trip, as far as I'm concerned only three are mandatory: six cold beer, a bag of sunflower seeds, and a new book. The campground is the only place where I have the time and freedom to indulge in these pleasures. This year I brought along Chris Schwarz's The Anarchists Tool Chest.

I enjoy Schwarz's writing. It's casual, fun and interesting. I usually skim quite a bit while reading, picking up the important points and avoiding boredom. Not so with Schwarz, I read everything, each word holds interest for me.

The focus of the book is to build a tool chest, to the highest standards. The entire project is based on the principles of solid construction, with an emphasis on useability, portability, and exceeding durability. Every detail is well thought out and presented with Schwarz's expertise, won through detailed examinations of existing period tool chests.

The secondary topic is on the tools that fill the chest. Schwarz lays out the needed handtools to perform every woodworking operation. His list is a complilation of his own experience coupled with information found through his research of antique woodworking literature. He details the characteristics to look for in each tool, and in several instances gives his specific reccomendation. Also included is a "Good-to-Have" list, tools that aren't necessary but increase efficiency and pleasure in the work. His opinions are well thought out and presented clearly, between that and his first hand knowledge of available tools make this valuable advise.

The third topic of this book is the one I enjoyed the most. Schwarz waxes philosopical, I side I haven't seen before. His ideas relating to time, money, and labour resonated very clearly with me. I paticulary enjoyed the passage outlining his shifting of priorites; buying well made things from skilled people at a fair price, refusing to buy cheap, "disposable" items, and making exactly what he needs, as opposed to buying something that will make do. As a craftsman and a friend of craftsmen, these points are something that I strongly agree with and live by. It's unfortunate that this writing is confined to a book directed to woodworkers, a group that by nature would live this lifestyle. I feel that the world would be much better off if it were required reading for everyone.

New Gets

2011-08-06T14:12:00.000-07:00

Everytime I'm at Lee Valley I check over the discount table while waiting for my number to be called. Every now and then I fnd a good deal, last time I got two pair of Brusso hinges.

I've been thinking about making a wall mounted tool cabinet, and these will work perfectly. They are the first pair of Brussos I've held, and they are magnificent. They make the no-mortise type I've been using look like garbage. The leaves are thick, the countersinks crisp, and the action is wonderful. Machined from solid brass, they swing freely without slop. All they require is a quick buffing before installation.

These were discounted because of being old stock. They bear the names of Larry and Faye Brusso, who started the company and sold it sometime pre-2003. These hinges from the new Brusso company sell for $43.50 a pair. I purchased $87 worth of hardware for $35. Insert gloaty emoticon here.

New Gets

2011-07-26T17:34:00.000-07:00

I bought a pair of Winding Sticks from Lee Valley. Winding sticks are used as sighting devices, laid across a board they accentuate twists and define high points. Traditionally they are shop made of wood, but I liked the idea that these would stay straight regardless of the environment. Additionally they have machined grooves spaced 1/8" apart, for readily estimating the amount of material for removal.

The one thing I didn't like about them is their lightness. The aluminum feels flimsy. I decided to fill mine with Beech.

I started with an off cut from my bench build. The quartersawn parts are located in the rough stock. I started by jointing the bark side, giving me a reference face parallel to the grain. The bandsaw was used to was used to cut the sides off, following grain lines. The blank was left a little taller than the final dimension.

I have several short strips of ebony left from several years worth of table inlays. I want a dark strip across the top of the infill, to better contrast against the milled surfaces of the other stick. They are only an 1/8" wide, so I inlayed two strips, side by side. The groove was cut on the table saw with a flat tooth blade, a little shallower than the ebonys height. This allowed me to clamp the strips in firmly.

After the stock came out of the clamps, the inlay was planed flush, and to final height. Next the stock was ripped in two, right up the middle of the two ebony strips. My show faces are bookmatched.

Now I locate the centre of the hanging holes, and there drilled a 1/2" hole with a brad point bit. Ebony plugs were cut, glued, and driven into the holes.

After the glue dried, I cut the plugs off with a flush cut saw. I cut up a coffee can lid to use as a shim. This keeps the background from being marred by the saw. I cut in from all around the plug before sawing the middle through. This prevents the plug from snapping off and breaking below the surface. A smoothing plane brings the plug flush without grinding ebony dust into the surface of the white beech, as sandpaper would do.

After the plug is flush the centre is found with a wheel gauge, and drilled though with a 1/4" brad point drill. The hole is given a light champher with a hand held countersink.

The strips are planed to their final thickness. A rabbet needs to be ripped to allow the infill to fit. I use a flat tooth blade in the tablesaw to cut it, slowly raising the blade and bringing the fence in until it is of the right size. A featherboard keeps the stock tight to the fence, eliminating the thin stocks want to flex. Not shown is the strip of 1/4" plywood clamped under the featherboard, keeping the feathers lifted and clear of the blade.

A transfer punch is used to keep the infill inline with the hanging hole, and the ends are marked with a knife. They are sawn off, and the marks sanded clean.

I then broke edges and lacquered them. I used epoxy to glue them into place.

I like the way they turned out. The wood strips add a surprising amount of substance to the sticks.

The ebony contrasts well with the milled aluminum, and it and the beech are used throughout my bench, contributing to a consistent look in the shop.

I also like the way that they have the reliablilty of metal and the look of wood, and are a nice combination of old and new school.

New Gets

2011-07-09T07:42:00.000-07:00

Things have been pretty slow around here for the last few weeks. I've decided to go on paternity leave, I'm off work for the last four months of my daughters first year. That way I can help out around the house, bond with the kids, enjoy the summer, and actually take a "holiday", my first in almost six years.

I still sneak into the shop for some me time, I've been making an entertainment centre as a gift for my folks. They've been using the gutted shell of their old console TV for years now, and deserve better. It's been a long time coming, and it's almost done.

I picked up a Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane a while back.

This plane is for cutting rabbets, both with the grain and across it with its scoring cutter. Attaching a beveled guide to the fence allows for panel raising.

It is made to the Veritas standard of quality. Everything is well thought out in its design.

The depth stop is robust, and the sliding, ribbed mount is a much better design than the rod style found on their plough plane.

The scoring spur is adjustable. It can be slid and locked into alignment with the iron, and lifted out of the way when it's unneccessary. The adjusting screws are accessed in the fence post mounting hole.

It does an excellent job, cleanly severing the wood fibers just ahead of the cut and leaving a nice sharp corner.

It's even more fun with the grain, making nice thick curls and accomplishing the job quickly.

The fence is locked into position using the same collet arrangement found on the plough. It works very well, easy, fast, and ensuring the fence is parallel to the sole. The mounting rods can be swapped for a long version, 2 1/2" longer than standard, to accomodate thick secondary fences.

This plane is difficult to set up. I completely dissassembled it for the photo above, loosing any starting point for reference. I spent a long time getting it to work correctly after that. I don't see how Veritas could improve on it though, it is just a complicated plane. They do have the body tapped for two blade-guiding set screws that help.

The only real complaint I have about this plane is pretty minor. I dislike the tote. It's shape is ugly and uninspired. I was also unimpressed with the amount of cross grain scratches under the finish.

I do like this plane. It is a lot of fun to use and works very well, once set up. Move over, tablesaw and router, I have a new favourite way to cut rabbets!

Wood Show 2011

2011-06-04T07:58:00.000-07:00

I am fortunate to live in an area that celebrates craft. In Saskatchewan we have several groups that focus attention on local artists, and here in my hometown there are at least four groups meeting monthly that focus on woodwork. The biggest is the Saskatchewan Woodworkers Guild. They have been active since 1978, and hold meetings, charity events, and shop tours. The Guild has a very strong educational presence with a large library and skill development workshops. The year end Wood Show is a highlight for me. This year I was floored by the quality of the work shown.

Turning by Phil Ochosky

Segmented turning by Leo Fritz

Intarsia by Bob Baker

Turning by Ab Odnokon

Turning by Jack Dzus

Marquetry by Walter McNabb

Turning by Duncan Birch

Carving by Cal Isaacson

Pierced turnings by Debra McLeod

There is always a section featuring work produced by local high school students. This Gibson replica was made by Aaron Berg.

This Oud, Guitar, and Lute were made by Weldon Gray. The quality of work is amazing on these pieces.

New Gets

2011-05-27T09:11:00.000-07:00

Five or six years ago the shop got a set of seven HSS Brad-Point Drill Bits from Lee Valley. I've used them on an almost daily basis since then, and I like them so much I bought my own boxed set of 28.

They are the best bits I have ever used. They are accurate, the chips clear easily, and they stay sharp for a long, long time.

The thing I like best about these bits is the absence of tearout. It is disheartening to see a piece of furniture marred by ugly chipout, caused by a piece of sub-par tooling. The bottom hole in the image below is a crisp entry hole, the top one is an almost tearout-free unsupported exit hole, no backing board used. I've seen these bits make tiny wood doughnuts from the last remaing fibers of a through- hole.

Current Work

2011-05-17T22:28:00.000-07:00

Dining Table
Cherry, Walnut

Current Work

2011-05-08T12:34:00.001-07:00

Picture Frame
Cherry
Artwork by Judith Cheesbrough
Happy Mothers Day!

Lesson Learned, the Hard Way

2011-05-05T08:06:00.000-07:00

You know that beautiful blue mineral streak in your cherry?

Sometimes there's a reason for it.

Hopefully you can find it before your jointer knives do.

Hanging Drawers

2011-04-26T08:02:00.001-07:00

I like Accuride full-extension drawer glides. Yes, they are ugly, but they have a high load rating, come in many sizes and styles, are easy to adjust, and they work well. They are suitable in all but the finest furniture, and nothing feels as nice as a drawer on ball bearings.

I've struggled with installing them, though. Each drawer has two cabinet tracks and two drawer rails that need to be in alignment, level and square. I've found the easiest way to keep everything straight is through two simple spacers.

I start with the drawer itself. The glide is assembled, the rail installed in the track. For this piece the reference is above the drawer, so I place the drawer upside down on a flat surface. I rip a scrap of plywood 7/8" wide, and use it to space the glide from the top of the drawer. The rail is slipped out of the track, its end is placed touching the drawer front, then screwed in place.

To maintain alignment, the rail is slipped out and screwed to the drawer one hole at a time.

After the rail is attached to the drawer the track is removed and screwed to the carcass. Here I use a 1" wide spacer, this keeps the rail level and automatically gives me a 1/8" reveal. That's a little coarse, in a finer cabinet I would use a 15/16" spacer for a 1/16" gap. Again, the front of the rail is placed right behind the drawer front.

The result is a drawer that hangs properly directly after install, level, with a consistent gap and smooth operation. No adjustments are needed.

New Gets

2011-04-17T13:14:00.000-07:00

After years of coveting, I finally bought myself a Precision Double Square from Lee Valley.

I have larger ones in the shop, so this time I chose the small 4" version. It's a gem, and is my new favourite square, It's pocket-sized, light, and according to my calipers, accurate in every dimension. The numbers and graduations are etched and ink-filled, and are easily readable against the satin finished rule. The knurled knob is a little awkward, but it works well, and is spring loaded to provide resistance to the blade while being adjusted.

It's graduated in four scales, 32nds and 64ths,

and 8ths and 16ths.

It's so pretty even my Wife likes it.

Current Work

2011-04-14T21:28:00.000-07:00

Wall Unit
Baltic Birch, Maple MDF, Maple Solids

The Stroke Sander

2011-04-03T15:30:00.000-07:00

I think the most underappreciated machine is the Stroke Sander. Not a lot of people have used one so it's potential is unrecognized. The stroke sander has a long belt that is cool running and doesn't burn. The table is height adjustable,and it runs on train like wheels that ride on two rails, coasting in and out. The pressure is applied with either a graphite canvas covered hand block, or with a travelling platen that glides on ball bearings along a track.

In June 2009 I was lucky enough to score a Progress stroke sander at a school auction. It's in fantastic condition, I don't think it was hardly used, and I was estatic when I got it for my opening bid of $100.

Progress made an excellent machine, built with off-the-shelf parts that are readily available. Doucet bought the company in 2001, and continues production in Victoriaville, Quebec. My model is still being made.

The stroke sander takes up a lot of room, but it's versatility makes it worth it. I use mine to strip old finishes off tabletops, remove snipe and level large glueups, and finish sand both solids and plywoods. Small parts can be sanded as well, with the use of simple holding jigs consisting of shaped stops screwed to plywood.

There are only two rules for success when using a stroke sander; keep the platen moving and don't hang it more than halfway over the edge. The platen slides back and forth while the table coasts in and out, it's an easy motion to learn. The platen will round over the edge of the stock if it's allowed to, so it must be kept flat on the surface.

The sander at the shop is the same as mine, except it has an eight foot bed as opposed to my six. I've also seen a four foot, it's in use at Fury Guitar, a local manufacturer.

Shooting End Grain

2011-03-28T19:37:00.000-07:00

Shooting is the act of planing end grain with a bench hook and a handplane on it's side. It cleans up and corrects crooked sawcuts and allows the board to be trimmed with great precision.

There are many descriptions of shooting boards online, they run the gamut from simple hooks to complicated affairs with inclined plane ramps and angled guides for shooting mitres. These can be helpful for making picture frames, it's a fairly simple matter to shoot the stock until the miters are perfect and the sides are equal length rather than trying to get final results off the saw.

While at the Lie-Nielsen Event I had the opportunity to play with their #51, a nine pound, skew bladed shooting plane that runs like a locomotive. Duncan Robertson gave me a couple of tips I'd never heard before, without question improving my success rate.

The first was that end grain has direction. Run your fingers across the end of a board, you'll find that one way is smooth, while the other catches. The smooth way is with the grain.

The next tip is that no matter how precise your shooting board fence, you'll have grain blowout as the blade exits the board. To beat it, knock the corner off with a few strokes against the grain.

Then flip the board over, register it against the fence, and shoot with the end grain.

Tool Event

2011-03-20T18:57:00.000-07:00

I was able to help out at the Lie-Nielsen Tool Event in Edmonton this weekend, held at NAIT, the Northern Alberta Institute of Technology.

Jeremy Tomlinson directed the show, he and I both did sharpening demos for the students and other show attendants.

The guest demonstrator was Duncan Robertson of Quiet Woodworking. He is an excellent teacher, combining education and humour in an easy to understand manner. He is one of those rare individuals who's talent is in an inverse proportion to his ego, and I feel fortunate to have met him.

His tool chest is amazing.

There are six more drawers.

I only saw half of the woodworking shops at the school, but what I saw was an impressive mix of high quality vintage machinery next to brand new CNC technology. I am envious of the opportunity the students get here. However, the real gems are in the instructors, people with a real passion for education and craft. They were all friendly and hospitable. Two of the warmest are Brent Efird and Monika Mannke. I was able to spend time with both involved in interesting discussions regarding education and inspiration, getting excited about projects, and taking tours of the school. During slow periods we sampled tools from Duncan's chest, including Glen Drake's Wild West joinery saw.

I met many interesting people from many different backgrounds, from custom pool cue makers to Inside Passage alumni to retirees looking for a hobby. I taught a 9 year old and a 76 year old how to saw. It amazes me that such a diverse group shares such a deep bond.

Tool Event

2011-03-13T18:40:00.000-07:00

Last week the Lie Nielsen Tool Event came to town, hosted by James Hopper, a very talented local craftsman.

Ted came up all the way from Maine, we discussed tools, the weather, and badminton.

Jeremy Tomlinson came from Vancouver to demonstrate various techniques.

Here he is with the #48 Tounge and Groove plane, a clever and facsinating tool specifically for the joint. It's everything a hand tool should be; quick, silent, and providing an excellent result. If I wasn't saving my pennies for the as yet unreleased compass plane I would've bought one.

They brought pretty much the whole range to play with, I had a lot of fun test driving tools I'd only seen online or in the catalogue. I was most impressed with their ergonomics, every one was satisfing to hold.

The event was an enjoyable time, playing with tools, talking with fellow woodworkers, and taking in the presentations. I even got in on the fun, doing a couple of quick demos on hand cut dovetails.

I'd like to thank Lie-Nielsen for coming to my small city, James for hosting the event, Jeremy and Ted for the presentation, and Don Kondra for the photos. Shavings, and friends, were made.

Current Work

2011-03-08T16:28:00.000-08:00

1964 Powermatic PM45 Lathe

Notes on the Restoration of a 1964 Powermatic PM45 Lathe

2011-02-18T20:42:00.000-08:00

My Powermatic lathe restoration is almost done, here is what I've learned about this machine.

Here is an exploded view of the stock Robbins & Meyers 3/4 hp 3 phase motor. The bearings are SKF 6203-2RSH/C3's, which were $5.64 each. The belt is a Goodyear 4L230, $5.79. The washers are shown on the wrong ends, the spring washer belongs on the pulley end of the shaft, not the fan.

Here's the variable speed drive. The bearings shown are two 6205-2RSH SKF's, $10.39 apiece. The roll pins in the sheave assembly are short, they can be driven though into the centre where they fall free, and re-driven in from the outside.

This is the plate assembly, this bearing is a FAG 6006.2RSR, $19.07. The machine screw required an impact wrench for removal.

It is mounted into the end of the sheave, note that it does not seat all the way in.

The variable speed pivot arm is attached to the mounting bracket, not shown is the bearing, an 88008 MRC. This is the single most expensive bearing in the machine at $57.19. As it is used to ride around a cam and is not subject to great speed, those on a budget may choose to not replace this bearing. Also, the bolt shown on the end of the pivot arm should not have it's nut in the jam position, it should be on the other side of the arm.

Here is the speed selector assembly. I put a large washer on either end of the spring for smoother action.

When looking at the front if the lathe the cam should form the number "6", a clamp provides pressure against the spring while the screw is tightened.

The head casting is located by two spring pins and secured by four bolts.

Upper sheave.

These roll pins will also fall out when pushed all the way in, reseat them from the outside. Restrain the snap ring when disassembling, the spring is still under tension when the sheave is fully closed.

Spindle assembly. Note that the indexing wheel is welded to the spacer. This was done by the previous owner, and a wise move. The wheels are known to have wallowed shafts and be prone to damage. They are the weak point in this machine. Drilling, tapping, and bolting these two parts together is another option.

The inboard spindle bearing gets mounted first, it's a Fafnir W206PP, $47.81. I use my bearing seperator to gently pull the bearing onto the shaft.

Next the wide spacer is mounted. This part is inaccessible from this point on.

A piece of all thread is slipped through the spindle, various washers and wood spacers are used to apply pressure where I need it and keep undue stress off the bearings. Be sure to back off the set screw hidden at the bottom of the sheave. This will hold the pulley open, allowing slack in the drive belt. It's a Goodyear 1422V420, $57.19. The outboard spindle bearing is an NTN R16ZZ, $33.43.

Here's the disassembled tailstock. The quill nut is threaded, and is best removed with an appropriate pin spanner. The handle pin is peened into place.

To dissassemble the banjo, first drive out the spring pin retaining the handle and remove it. There is a bronze bushing which must be driven out from the inside before the rod is freed. I used a small pin punch, first I ground the tip flat, then I bent its shaft for clearance. I slowly tapped out the bushing, rotating the shaft to access the perimeter.

Motor mount.

Outboard stand.

I found it easiest to completely assemble and tune the variable speed drive before the lathe was mounted on the base. The belt must be at the top of one sheave when at the bottom of the other, the fit is adjusted by the bolt pushing against the bearing plate and by adjusting the variable speed assembly bracket.

Here's the finished product.

For Sale 2

2011-01-19T17:58:00.000-08:00

Things have been a little different in the shop lately, since Christmas I've been working on some custom millwork. After hours I've been restoring my Powermatic lathe. She's almost ready for paint, just a few more hours on the wire wheel and buffer and she'll be in the booth. I've been taking photos as I go, and will post about it when it's done.

To help finance the paint and bearings I've been selling spare parts on eBay.

General 4" Tool Rest

Powermatic Tailstock Wrench

Powermatic Banjo

Powermatic Tailstock

For Sale

2011-01-09T12:45:00.000-08:00

I've got some items on eBay right now. Proceeds go to the purchase of bearings, belts, and paint for the lathe restore I'm in the middle of.

Delta 4" Rest

Powermatic Tailstock Wrench

Delta Right Angle Rest

Powermatic 12" Rest

New Gets

2011-01-02T15:23:00.000-08:00

I don't often buy tools online. I find that shipping costs, paticularly in Canada, add too much to the total bill. When I surf eBay, I use the "Distance: Nearest First" option to see items within pick up distance. This narrows my options down a lot, too. My city, Saskatoon, is relatively young, the population is small, and my province's economy is historically agriculturally based. There just isn't a lot of old tools around.

However, sometimes the sun shines and I find something interesting. A while back I bought this folding mitre box, in most of it's original finger jointed box.

There is a rod, with a decorated head, that stores in the side.

This rod slips into a hole in the front of the box when it's opened, holding the bottom flat.

There are metal guides, one at 90° and two at 45°, slotted for adjusting to the thickness of the saw plate.

Brass studs prevent cutting through the bottom while keeping damage to the saw at a minimum.

I think this is made by the Gem Folding Miter Company, The Alaska Freezer Company, Winchendon, Massachusetts. However, there are several differences between this one and examples I can find online. The Gem boxes came in a cardboard box, the hinges and wood are different, the guides are a white metal, they have a ruler scale printed on the front, and they have a decal. The only mark on mine is the word "patented" stamped on one end, as of yet I haven't been able to find record of the patent or it's holder.

The box has a 3" capacity, too deep for my Lie Nielsen Carcass saw.

When I first got it I intended to salvage the metal guides and install them on a shop made bench hook, but now I think that would be wrong. I'll keep my eyes open for a Gem model to disassemble, this one will stay in its present condition.

New Gets

2010-12-30T19:11:00.000-08:00

Also under the Christmas tree this year were gifts from the in-laws.

My Father-in-Law gave me this Mohawk-Shelburne breast drill, which came "from back on the farm".

The Mohawk-Shelburne name was Millers Falls economy line, good tools aimed at the occasional user. According to this Old Tool Heaven web site, this drill was manufactured between 1935 and 1949.

It's a two speed model with a three jaw, 1/2" chuck.

Loosening the knurled knob and sliding the main gear up engages the outer ring of teeth, resulting in more bit rotations per crank revolution.

Also, for the third year running, my Mother-in-Law gave me a Lie-Nielsen socket chisel. This is a tradition I will fully encourage.

They're so nice, easy to look at and a joy in the hand. I'm looking forward to having the whole set, late 2017.

Thanks Mom and Dad!

New Gets

2010-12-28T08:27:00.000-08:00

Also under the tree this year was a Veritas Miniature Edge Plane.

It comes in a fitted box with an anti-corrosion chip and full instruction.

The body is 2 3/8" long, machined stainless steel.

The lever cap is a nice piece of work the size of your pinkie nail.

My only complaint is I wish the lever cap knob was made of brass.

I find miniatures fascinating, especially ones that function. This one works right out of the box, leaving a smooth surface square to the edge.

I got a second miniature plane this Christmas, it won't take a shaving but it will contain my keys.

Thanks Barb and Eric!

New Gets

2010-12-28T08:01:00.000-08:00

I must have been a nice woodworker this year, because Santa brought me plenty from the tool store. My first Christmas present this year was a Lee Valley Pocket Marking Gauge.

It is a double ended wheel cutting gauge, 4 1/2" long, stainless steel with hardened steel cutters.

The locking screws bear down on a brass disc, to prevent scoring the shaft which would make sliding the head difficult.

The heads are a beautiful piece of machining, and just large enough to provide an adequate bearing surface while in use.

The cutters are sharpenable, and replacements are available. They are held on by a philips head screw, and fully retract into the head for safe storage.

The blade is a single bevel, positioned to draw the tool tight to the stock. The line formed is crisp, straight, and accurate.

This will become my main marking gauge, and I think that it is one of the best tools for laying out dovetail base lines. Its size is scaled for that type of fine work, and the double head is useful if your drawer sides and fronts are of different thicknesses.

Thanks Thomas!

Current Work

2010-12-27T10:18:00.000-08:00

Dining Table
Walnut

Planktop Table- Strongbacks

2010-12-27T10:06:00.000-08:00

The skirts on this table will help keep the top flat, but to help out I'm going to make and install three strongbacks.

I start by milling up 6/4 walnut about an inch wide and a couple of inches shorter than the space between the skirts. The strongback is screwed to the underside of the table, the holes for the screws are slotted to allow for expansion of the top. I use a spiral bit mounted in the shaper to cut the counterbore slots. The fence is positioned so the bit is centred in the stock. A mark is placed on the fence indicating the bit position. The stock is placed so that a layout mark on the bottom is lined up to the one on the fence, the machine is switched on, and the bit is raised. I count the number of revolutions I crank the handle so that I can repeat the depth on the next hole. The stock is advanced until it contacts the stop block, and the bit is lowered below the tabletop again. A featherboard keeps the stock secure.

A clearance slot is made with a handheld router.

Next I layout a radius on the ends, bandsaw the curve, and use the edge sander to clean up the saw marks.

From there they get cleaned up with a handplane.

The edges are broken with the block plane.

I use a screw with a washer head, but another option is Chris Becksvroots slotted Expansion Washers.

The strongbacks are mounted, the centre is tightly fastened, the slots allow expansion from the middle, yet help keep the top flat.

Fully assembled.

Ready for finish.

Planktop Table- Base Assembly

2010-12-27T09:39:00.000-08:00

Because of the angled joinery, the base is easiest to assemble and clamp as an entire structure. The floating tenons are glued into the skirts and allowed to cure. Glue is applied to the leg mortises and the unit is clamped up.

Because the leg mortises are cut in line with each other the top of the leg is weaker than one with perpendicular mortises. Dragging the table creates a large amount of leverage at the top of the leg, and it could split. A cornerblock is made to strengthen the leg.

I placed a second corner block to further reinforce the joint.

Z-clip slots are cut with a biscuit joiner and a spacer.

The base is mounted to the top with clips and screws.

The clip is a secure mounting method that allows for seasonal movement.

Planktop Table- Joinery

2010-12-19T10:40:00.000-08:00

The base on this table features rectangular legs 45° to the skirt. Because of the odd joinery, I used the Leigh jig.

The mortises were cut in the legs. Because the table tilts up to 30°, I had to attach a 25° wedge to get the 45° angle I needed to cut the tenons.

The long skirts were a challenge.

However, the tenons proved to be to weak to work, the extreme angle made them all short grain. I cut them all off and went to a loose tenon join.

The change in plan meant a change for the mortise location in the legs, as well.

A set of stops is positioned and the legs are given a first shaping.

Levelers are drilled for with the drill press, an f-clamp braced against the column prevents the leg from grabbing and spinning in your hand.

A dowel is used to pound them home.

Planktop Table- Top

2010-12-19T10:20:00.000-08:00

A planktop table poses challenges unique to working with long boards. The biggest is maintaining thickness, so only the straightest rough stock is used. The top is glued up in two halves, so that it not only fits in the clamp rack, but also through the thickness sander.

The top is glued up one joint at a time, alternating between the two halves.

This allows me to get a flat glue-up, maximizing thickness. Straighter boards pull ones that have moved slightly back to flat.

Each half is left to dry, then ran through the thickness sander. The inside is jointed.

The halves are glued up with long clamps. Care is taken for a flush glue up.

The joint has cured, and the stroke sander cleans it up as well as any other surface flaws.

The top is now ready to be cut from the slab.

New Gets

2010-12-13T09:13:00.000-08:00

My latest acquisition in the world of lathe tooling is a Golden Goose Drill Chuck, from Lee Valley.

It comes with a chuck key and #2 Morse taper, drilled and tapped for a restraining rod for use in the headstock as a workholding chuck.

Because I have a scroll chuck, the drill chuck will be used in the tailstock, holding drill bits.

I am biased toward North American machinery and tools, normally I wouldn't have bought this chuck, as it's made in Tiawan. However, it is close to 85% cheaper than an American made Jacobs chuck, and will do until I can find a good used Jacobs and rebuild it. The fit and finish isn't fancy, but is acceptable. The only issue I have is with their logo.

That is clearly a white pelican.

New Gets

2010-12-05T08:21:00.000-08:00

While attending Great Western Saws customer appreciation days I picked up a Oneway Live Centre.

The main body has a threaded cup centre, the only moving part, mounted on two bearings.

The centre point is inserted.

The kit comes with a reversible bull nose cone.

As well as a full point cone.

Also included is a knock out rod for removing the centre point, which doubles as a spindle stop, needed for removing the cones.

This live centre is very well made. The only thing I didn't like was the instruction manual. As a beginner woodturner, I need everything to be explained. I would like to see pictures of each cone in use, to better understand their application.

Mirror Frames- Veneered Panels

2010-12-04T08:47:00.000-08:00

I need to make two veneered panels for two cherry mirror frames. I like to use baltic birch for the substrate. It's flat, uniform, and free of voids.

I cut two pieces larger than the finished dimensions, then I select a couple of pieces of eucalyptus veneer from the flitch.

I give the sheets a LIGHT spritzing with water to soften them. You don't want to wet the veneer, just raise it's moisture a little. It's wrapped in plastic and placed on a flat table.

I then place a weight on it to help flatten it and prevent it from curling. Here I am using an MDF bent lamination form for bending table skirts.

While the veneer is getting ready I turn to the substrate. Glue is applied.

A roller is used to spread and level.

The veneer is placed on the glued face, then the whole panel is placed face down on a platen. The platen is covered with plastic to prevent the veneer from adhering to it.

The bundle is then placed in the vacccum bag and left there for thirty minutes.

I give the panel a day to cure before continuing to work on it. I start by trimming the veneer flush with a knife, making light passes until I have a kerf, then increasing pressure until the waste is severed.

The panel is then ripped to width, keeping the veneer up to avoid the blade from chipping it.

Then it's chopped to length.

The rabbet this panel fits into was router cut, so the corners aren't square. I use a set of Wheel Gauges to layout the corners. I like these gauges a lot, I find new uses for them all the time.

The edge sander follows the line.

Before I place the panel in the frame, I give the edges a heavy break. This prevents the veneer from catching and chipping when it's removed from the rabbet.

Being very careful to not go through the veneer, it's sanded to remove the glue and to polish the surface.

Oil brings out the colour and the figure.

Mirror Frames- Mitre Spline

2010-11-27T08:20:00.000-08:00

I've got three mirror frames to build, two in cherry with a curly eucalyptus panel, and one in walnut with curly maple accents. The corners are mitered, an inherently weak joint that's mostly end grain to end grain. I like to spline mitres, a technique that gives the joint plenty of strength and is a nice design feature. I start by milling up the frame stock, and making the mitre cuts with a chopsaw and stop block. I use biscuits to help with alignment during clamp up, for which I use a band clamp (this one time, in band clamp...). From there the frame goes to the tablesaw for kerfing.

The spline jig is a simple one, little more than a vertical piece of plywood with a fence saddle. An old push stick was added for a little more control. This workholder is useful on the shaper as well, holding stock at angles impossible to maintain by hand. The jig gets a fence of scrap material screwed on at 45°, the frame is slid down it until the leading corner touches the saw table, then it's firmly clamped into place.

It is important to choose a saw blade with a flat top tooth configuration. Using an alternating top bevel will result in a kerf with a v-shaped bottom, and the spline will not sit cleanly in the groove.

The spline material is now milled to match the kerf. The dry fit should be a little loose, you should be able to bottom it out in the kerf without force. If it's tight at this stage it will be impossible to seat after the addition of glue. For maximum strength the grain should run perpendicular to the mitre cuts, the long grain spanning the joint. I make a clamp block from scrap, apply glue to the kerf, and insert the spline. The clamp draws the spline in, but go slowly and don't apply too much pressure, or the spline could break, or the clamp block could wedge the joint apart.

Then the joint is clamped across the spline, with as much pressure as possible. This ensures the spline is firmly glued to the frame, and eliminates the glue line. Clamp pads are used to avoid marring the stock. After these clamps are applied, the f-clamp and clamping block can be removed for use on the next corner.

After the glue has dried, the excess spline is sawed off close to the frame.

The joint is cleaned up, as it's end grain I am removing I choose a low angle block plane. The spline must be worked from the outside to the inside, working from the corner to the middle of the frame edge. Working toward the outside will result in the corner of the spline breaking off and ruining the nice clean work. I use a chisel, flush to the surface, to sever the fibres close to the edge to avoid tearout there.

The spline is then planed flush.

The result is a strong joint with plenty of long grain gluing surface, and a nice design feature that doesn't detract from the view from the front.

New Gets

2010-11-24T20:03:00.000-08:00

When I picked up my scroll chuck, I splurged on a set of Oneway Jumbo Jaws. These jaws will fit all three Oneway chucks, the Oneway, the Talon, and the Stronghold.

The plates are milled aluminum.

The buttons are hard rubber over a steel sleeve, and can mount directly to the chuck. Extra buttons can be purchased for stacking.

The jaws have a 11" external, 12" internal maximum capacity.

Precisely located, tapped holes make centering easy. Those combined with mounting slots make the jaws capable of securing out of round, oval, square, and otherwise irregular workpieces.

I haven't pushed the limits of these jaws at all yet, but so far I think they work very well.

New Gets

2010-11-14T18:02:00.000-08:00

Being new to the lathe, I've asked a few turners their opinion on chucks. Their one word answer was "Stronghold". The chuck comes with a chuck key, a allen wrench, woodworm screw, an adapter, and an information booklet.

The adapter is threaded to match your lathe.

There are four holes in the adapter, two are counter bored for attachment to the chuck. The other two are threaded to act as jack screws, used to pop the adapter off the chuck if removal is difficult.

Changing the chuck to a new lathe is as simple as attaching a different adapter.

The chuck can be threaded on the inboard or outboard spindle. If your lathe allows, a set screw can lock the chuck in place for turning in reverse.

The chuck comes with a set of Standard #2 jaws.

One of the jaws has a roll pin, it gets placed into one of the two positions with grooves. The long groove restricts the jaws from over extension, the short groove keeps the jaws travel inside the body. This avoids knuckle rapping protrusions.

The woodworm screw is firmly secured in the chuck. This photo shows the chuck missing a jaw to illustrate how the bit is locked in place.

With all parts properly secured and tightened, the screw and jaws make a secure anchor and base for large turnings. This is a quick method of attaching stock to the chuck, drill a pilot hole in the top of the bowl, then turn the outside and bottom. Make a spigot or a recess in the bottom of the bowl, then chuck it up in the jaws and hollow out the inside, removing the hole made by the screw.

I like this chuck very much. It is very quick and secure, and the repeatable centering is very convenient. The jaws included are very useful for small bowls, internal chucking with the jaws expanding inside a recess results in a nearly blemish free, tight hold. However, they have a 2" diameter minimum compression which makes them too big for standard 8/4 stock. Accessory jaws are available to expand the chucks capabilties from 3/8" to 14".

Current Work

2010-11-10T17:51:00.001-08:00

Dining Table
Maple, Cherry, Chevy Truck

Table Making- Undercarriage

2010-11-07T07:46:00.000-08:00

The legs were shaped before I drilled and installed levellers, otherwise the holes would've been revealed as I removed the taper, if they'd been centred on the leg blank.

A legged table is constructed a little differently than a pedestal, a pedestal mounts to the extension rails, where the leg assembly mounts to the top itself. The dimensions of this table are a little smaller than most, to be able to store leaves between the extension rails the rails are mounted close to the leg skirt assemblies. They wouldn't fit without modification, so the metal track was removed while I sawed off the corner. The metal was ground to match and re-installed.

The corner blocks are a little abnormal, too. Usually I mount them spanning from skirt to skirt, with these I had only room to go between skirt and leg.

Leaf storage rails are installed, they are milled at the same time as the mount for the fifth leg. Legged tables rely on their rails for structural rigidity, at full extension they have a tendency to sag. The table is supported through a fifth leg, mounted with a hanger bolt so the user can easily remove it when the table is used without leaves.

The mounting plate for the fifth leg gets small blocks to keep the leg from rotating on it's bolt. A small profile adds detail to these rarely seen parts.

Fully assembled, ready for finish.

Opened, showing leaf storage.

Table Making- Five Sided Leg

2010-10-30T09:18:00.000-07:00

The latest table through the shop has a dissapearing taper on the inside corner, this along with a roundover profile picks up on design elements found in the chairs the client chose.

I begin with the legs, milled square and cut to length, mortises cut.

A sled is made for the planer, the taper dictated by the amount of rise. The planers feed rollers act on the stock, so a front stop is used to keep the leg onboard. I'll also send the jig through the thickness sander, its feed belt pushes the sled, so a rear stop is also installed.

The sled is passed through the planer.

Because the planers feed rollers marr the stock at the top of the taper, I stop short of the final goal.

Paying attention to grain direction, the taper is finished on the jointer.

The legs can be proven consistent when the taper makes a perfect disappearing square.

I like making shapes and flipping them around to form other designs, it creates inspiration for other projects. I wonder where I could incorporate this interesting pattern.

I wasn't able to get a photo of this table in the clients house, so to illustrate the relationship between this leg and the chairs here's a photo of a similar table I made several years ago.

Back to Class 2

2010-10-25T09:08:00.000-07:00

I was able to take a second class this week, Surface Design with Michael Hosaluk. Although I love wood grain and try to use it to greatest impact, I understand that surface ornamentation can have very positive results on a piece and I wanted to learn more about it. Mike has been using a number of procedures for altering the appearance of wood for years, and I was interested to learn his techniques.

The day started with a short talk on surface design and how it relates to form. Mike described his processes and his inspirations, drawing from his Ukranian background being surrounded with cultural colour and pattern. His thoughts toward design centre around unfearful experimentation, constantly trying new processes and learning from the results, whether sucess or failure.

He brought plenty of examples for inspiration and review.

Techniques covered included the use of paints, milk and acrylic.

Carving, by hand, reciprocating tool, powered burr, and angle grinder mounted cutters.

Woodburning, and gold and silver leafing were also covered.

After an introduction to all the methods, the class was given basswood blanks and free reign to try each technique in whatever fashion they saw fit.

I tried several procedures for the first time, carving in basswood, wood burning, gold leafing, layering and removing paint, and using resists.

Halfway through the afternoon the class stopped to show their work, describing their techniques, thought processes, and inspirations behind what they had done. Succeses and failures were discussed for the education of all.

I had enough time after the discussion to do a small piece encompassing all the techniques I had learned througout the day. I used relief carving, layered milk and acrylic paint, silver leaf, graphite, and wax to create this, a design I like and may tweak for use in the future. I left the class feeling creatively charged, and am excited to use these techniques in my work.

Back to Class 1

2010-10-24T21:18:00.000-07:00

I am a fortunate woodworker. I live in an area homesteaded by people with the strength to withstand the harsh climate, and the resilency to carve a home and living from the prairie. The spirit of these immigrants still lives here, the importance of craft and family is strong. Several guilds make their home in my small city, inventiveness and collaboration make this a hot spot for fibre, glass, ceramics, paint, and every other media at an artists disposal. The Saskatchewan Woodworkers Guild, Hub City Woodturners, The Saskatchewan Craft Council, and The Saskatchewan Arts Board encourage local innovation and excellence in wood.

If I were to choose one person who embodies the spirit of Saskatchewan art, it would be Michael Hosaluk. Tireless innovation, constant consideration, and a complete lack of pretention has made him the backbone of local craft. His mastery of the lathe and complete approachabilty has resulted in him becoming an instructor in high demand, his work has taken him around the world. I had the opportunity to take two classes under his instruction this week, the first was about woodturning.

Mikes class ran all day, and covered a lot of ground. The day started with spindle work, demonstrating clean, fast work on a number of small production items. Door stops, rolling pins, spatulas, Christmas tree ornaments, and tops spilled off his lathe in rapid succession.

His personality is easy going, his instructing style intelligent yet informal. We were allowed to move around as we pleased, I spent much of the day standing behind him and watching over his shoulder as his tool made contact with the work.

Here he is making a wine bottle stopper. After he used a chatter tool to cut a design on the top he demonstrated doing the same to the sides with a gouge, a technique he laughingly calls "chowder, not chatter".

He also did some multi-axis work, which results in a mind boggling blurr as it rotates on the lathe.

He then switched to bowl turning. Here he is making a thin walled Madrone burl bowl, using his hand as a steady and a light to gauge the wall thickness. A damp cloth is kept nearby, the green wood walls so thin they must be moistened periodically to prevent them from drying and distorting on the lathe.

From there he made a practical bowl of birch with walls thick enough for daily use.

Next demonstrated was his techniques for making a perfect friction fit lidded box. After the initial form is turned, it is cut apart and reglued into a fantastic shape impossible to make on a lathe.

Througout the day the demonstrations were punctuated with lessons on design. Mike's philosophies on shape are well thought out and eloquently presented. He brought examples of his work as inspiration, and was glad to explain the technical operations behind each piece.

I left the day knowing much more than what I started with, excited to put his ideas to use. I am lucky to have started on the turning leg of my woodworking journey with such an enlightened tutor.

New Gets

2010-10-19T18:52:00.000-07:00

I attended a school board auction a couple of weeks ago and was thrilled to walk away with a pair of Powermatic 45 lathes.

I was hoping to have first choice for under $350. If I did I'd take two (of the six that were there) so I could have a parts machine. I ended up being the high bidder at $225.

$30 more bought me a box of "parts";

and a factory outboard stand.

They are powered by 3/4 horse Robbins and Meyers three phase motors.

Which are dual voltage.

I've never had such an easy time finding out the birthday of a machine.

Jeff Smith replied to my post on OWWM.org. He thinks he may know "GLM", one Gerald Motley, a Sales Manager at Powermatic in the 1980's.

I ran them both, and chose the one that ran smoothest for my user.

The other will go into my rathole for storage.

Both came with a nicely made dusthood with a flip up grille.

My kind and wonderful wife has registered me for the Michael Hosaluk woodturning class at Lee Valley. As this is a little like Al Unser teaching Drivers Ed., I've been reading and practising like a madman. My friend Don Kondra kindly provided me with some education and experience, of which I am grateful.

Me and my first shavings, Don's Shop, photo by Mr.Kondra himself.

The final tally is:
2 PM45 lathes consisting of a stand, bed, headstock, vs assembly, motor and electrics, and all knobs
3 complete tailstocks including wrenches and live centres
1 spare tailstock wrench
1 spare live centre
4 banjos
1 8" plate
1 6"
2 4"
1 3"
2 4" rests
2 6"
1 16"
4 12"
1 90°
3 spur drives
1 knockout rod
1 outboard stand

The bill came to just over $500.

Current Work

2010-10-07T19:34:00.003-07:00

Krenov-style Block, Smoother, Jointer Planes
Beech, Lignum Vitae, Brass, Hock Irons

Brass Pins For a Krenov Plane

2010-10-07T19:11:00.000-07:00

Brass has been an important component in woodshops for years. It’s warm glow peeks out in old plane depth adjuster knobs, wear strips on marking gauges, and binding old levels. It’s kind to tool steel, and patinas beautifully. It works easily with carbide tooling, and is easy to machine even if you don’t have a milling machine or metal lathe.

I’ve made Krenov style planes before, so to change things up I wanted to try making the pin in brass. I started by picking up a 12” long, ½” diameter rod, which cost me about $14.

I started by cutting one end square on the miter saw. It’s important to clamp any round stock, be it metal or wood. It’s too easy for the saw to catch the piece and spin it when it’s held by hand. Also, a miter saws forces go back and up, your clamps pressure must be exerted above the rods centre line. This forces the rod against the fence and down toward the table. In the photo below, you can see the rod, held by a block slightly raised above the table. The block is being pressured by the clamp, also fairly high. A spacer, thicker than the rod, puts the blocks pressure on the rod close to where the cutting happens. Then I measure, mark, and cut the rod 1/8” longer than the plane will be wide.

Next, I cut tenons on the ends. These are 1/16” shorter than the plane cheeks are wide, 3/8” in diameter. To make them I use a carbide spiral bit in my router and I use a wood guide. The block is milled square, and a centre line is layed out on its face and across the end. A sharp ½” brad point bit is used to drill the pilot holes for the bit and the brass. The router base is bolted directly to the block, and the whole jig is clamped in the vise. The rod is chucked into a drill and the router switched on. The feed rate is controlled by two things, the rate of plunge and the rpms of the drill. Keep both low for best results. Surface finish is markedly better if you were to approach the router from the opposite side; the cut is cleaner when the ends of the flutes do the work. The problem with that is the amount removed from the diameter of the rod is dictated by the offset of the holes drilled and there is no adjustability. Because the tenon sides are hidden by the plane cheeks, surface finish isn’t important, so I prefer to do it in this manner. Coming at the bit from its side allows you to tweak both dimensions, tenon diameter by varying the depth of the router bit, length of tenon by the depth of rod penetration. The drill chuck acts as a stop, so once I get the right length of tenon I measure the amount protruding from the chuck and do the rest with the same.

From there it’s to the drill press to dress and dome the ends. The rod is chucked up by the tenon to avoid marring the visible surface. I lower it against sandpaper backed by a foam sponge. The soft backing allows the faster moving circumference of the rod to wear quicker than the middle, resulting in a domed end. I use 120 grit paper to remove the saw marks, then it’s polished to 600. The pin will be 1/16” proud of the cheeks when done, so I strive to have the domes edge meet that mark. I do one end, and then I flip the pin and do the other. While it’s chucked up and spinning, I use the sandpaper to polish the rod itself.

Next, a flat is milled into the pin to match the wood wedge used to hold the blade secure. A simple jig is made to hold the pin; a 3/8” hole drilled in the same place in two wood blocks receives the tenon. Both blocks are brad nailed to a piece of plywood to keep them in the same plane, and the jig is clamped in a vise, further securing the hold. A steel screw is countersunk below the surface, its tip biting the tenon and preventing the pin from spinning. A bushing is installed in the router to leave a 1/8” between the flat and the tenon shoulder. The flat is 1/16” wider than the plane blade. The router is placed on the jig, the bit lowered until it’s touching the pin. The router is started, and using a slow feed rate passed back and forth over the pin until the span has been covered. Now the flat is measured. If it is not the same on both ends it is because the pin isn’t parallel to the top of the jig. Shim the side with the wider flat with duct tape, lower the bit until it’s touching the wide end, and try again. Once the flat is even I cut it to a depth of 1/16”.

Done!

Current Work

2010-10-05T16:00:00.000-07:00

Desk
Cherry, curly Soft Maple

Current Work

2010-10-03T08:26:00.000-07:00

Bar Stool
Poplar, Leather

End Grain

2010-10-02T09:43:00.000-07:00

Soft Maple End Grain

Current Work

2010-09-25T20:26:00.000-07:00

Mans Jewelry Box
Koa, Ebony, Leather

Maple and Cherry Desk- Drawers

2010-09-25T20:02:00.000-07:00

The drawer sides for this project are to be of solid maple. I use the offcuts from the top. First they are ripped to rough width.

Then they're resawn. A featherboard and a consistent feed rate give best results.

The sides are milled flat and square, the sides are cut to final length but the front and back are left long. The groove for the bottom is made on the tablesaw.

Leaving the blade at that height, the rabbet for the front is made. I make several passes, moving the fence until the rabbet is as wide as the front is thick.

A dado is then sawn to capture the back.

Now that the joinery has been cut the length for the front and back can be found. The bottoms are 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood. They are cut to size. A plane makes quick work of machine marks.

The first corner is glued and pinned together.

Because the bottoms are plywood movement isn't an issue so they can be glued in, increasing the overall strength of the drawer. It's proven square when the diagonals measure equal.

The top is mounted with a screw through the divider to help support the drawers, and z-clips to allow the top to expand and contract with humidity swings.

The drawers are mounted. Although the client has chosen pulls for her piece, I still rout a cove into the bottom of the front rail, and a mate in the drawer fronts.

It's now ready for finish.

Maple and Cherry Desk- Tenons

2010-09-25T18:45:00.000-07:00

Although there are three different sizes of tenon in this project, the mortises were all cut with the same chisel, so they all have similarites. With careful planning setups can be reduced and accuracy and speed gained.

I start with the faces of the tenon, as I find it easier to test fit the width than the height. The outside face of the tenon is first, as it's shoulder is already dictated by the leg layout. The majority of the waste is removed with the dado stack in the tablesaw.

The last 1/8" is climb cut by slowly pulling the stock backwards through the blade, resulting in a nice clean shoulder free of tearout.

The sides, front and back, and the drawer supports are all cut at this setting.

Then the inside, non-critical face is cut. I creep up on the perfect fit, cutting the cheek short of the shoulder until the tenon fits.

Next are the drawer supports. These are normally made of 4/4 stock but the design of this desk dictated that the drawers not go all the way across the front. These 8/4 supports act as a standoff.

Next up are the edges of the tenon, the top first as it's dimension is dictated by the distance from the top of the mortise to the top of the leg. I sneak up on the correct fit, taking shallow test passes until it's perfect.

The bottom edge is last, again I take shallow cuts until I like the fit. The tenon is upside down in the photo.

It's time to start assembly, beginning with the ends.

Before it goes completely together, I cut a stopped dado with a router in the middle of the back rail. The end gets squared up by chisel.

Once the framework is clamped up and I can get an accurate measurment, a center divider is made.

The back is glued and hung in the stopped dado, the front is glued and screwed to the front rail.

Maple and Cherry Desk- Top

2010-09-11T13:56:00.000-07:00

After the glue has cured the top is flattened with the thickness sander.

Snipe is removed with the stroke sander and the 120 belt.

An edge is jointed straight and square to the top.

Then it's ripped to final width.

It's too wide for my crosscut sled and too long for my tablesaw fence, so it's cut to rough length with a jigsaw. The cut is finished with a router and a bearing guided straight bit. I climb cut the right corner to avoid the grain tearing out.

The top is then given an edge profile, and final sanded with the stroke sander to 220.

Maple and Cherry Desk- Legs

2010-09-11T08:00:00.000-07:00

The latest project in the shop is a desk, two drawers, curved tapered legs, cherry with a curly soft maple top.

First thing in the clamps is the legs, 6/4 cherry cut and glued to show bookmatched grain on one face. Then the top is milled up and put in the rack.

The next day the work progresses on the legs. The glue is scraped off and the leg is jointed on the bookmatched face. Because this face looks best by removing the least amount of material, it is my reference face.

A perpendicular face is jointed square to the bookmatched face, and the leg is planed square.

The legs are cut to common length with a mitre saw and stop block.

The leg positions are chosen best face forward, bookmatched face out.

The joinery is cut next, to avoid error in layout I draw the curved taper outline.

The joint is cut with a hollow chisel mortiser. Cut holes at the ends and at less than the chisel width apart. Then remove the waste from between the holes. This keeps the chisel from cutting a hole unsupported on one side, reducing bit flexing and the chisel overheating.

Mortises are cut for the back rail, the side rails, the drawer rail supports, a rail across the front under the drawers, and for two stub front rails.

The taper is cut on two parallel edges with the bandsaw. A fair curve is easier to saw if you pull your head back. Seeing more of the line makes it easier to cut along it, steering from the very end of the stock.

The edge sander removes the saw marks. The convex curve is easy to sand, rocking it back and forth against the platen. The concave side takes a little more finesse. Keep the face referenced against the platen, but apply pressure on the leading edge. This where the abrading will take place, so pull the leg smoothly past it for a even inside curve.

It's unneeded for the gentle curve of this long leg, but for shorter legs I installed an auxilliary platen to the sander. It's MDF with a graphite paper face. It bumps the paper out away from the drums, so deeper inside curves can be sanded. It essentially "shortens the sole" of the machine.

The waste is then taped back on the legs and the same taper is drawn.

The curve is sawn and sanded as the first.

New Gets

2010-08-28T10:52:00.000-07:00

A buddy of mine is the distributor for Defiant Energy LED lighting. These bulbs are the newest chip style LED light. This bulb is dust proof, impact reistant, and hazardous location compatible. They have a 43,000 hour warranty, with no appreciable degradation of light quality before 75,000 hours. Instant start even at cold temperatures. They are mercury free, and have an extremely low environmental impact in both manufacture and disposal. They are silent and full spectrum.

I replaced the 60w bulb in my bench light for this 3w LED. The incandescent threw off a lot of heat, a problem because I like the light close to my hands and face when sawing joinery. My absolute favourite thing about this bulb is that it is completely cool running.

New Gets

2010-08-28T10:41:00.000-07:00

My collection is complete.

Thanks Mr.Lee!

With that I'm at 100 posts. Thanks to those of you who have read them!

Five Minute Bench 12

2010-08-23T11:51:00.000-07:00

OK, so there's no dovetails in this one but I figured this was the best way to classify this post.

This is my second tray, I was almost done the first when I decided I wanted a place to hold the irons. I tossed it into the scrap bin when I thought someone may want it. If you have a Veritas Router Plane and would like a little unfinished french fit Bubinga tray for it, post an "I want it!" in the comments area below.

New Gets

2010-08-23T10:45:00.000-07:00

I was aware of Woodworking Magazine when it first arrived on the newsstand. I had picked up an issue or two, and was impressed with its content. I'm not sure why, if it was the black and white photos, or its sporadic release times, but it seemed Fine Woodworking magazine almost always ended up with my reading dollar. I was was saddened to learn of Woodworking Magazines recent demise (in its original form, it's now combined with Popular Woodworking magazine). It turned out to be to my advantage to wait, as the magazine in it's entirety has been published in a three volume hardcover set.

Each issue is well written, informative and descriptive. Editor Steve Shanesy brings a commercial viewpoint to his articles, relating from his days in a cabinet shop. Editor Chris Schwarz writes in an informal style, highlights for me include the articles "Why We Hate Paint" and "Pining for Pine". Chris is one of the important figures in woodworking today, his research has resulted in several very informative articles on hand tool use. One of the more imporant pieces of woodworking literature in that last decade is his article on the Roubo bench, a form that has become wildly popular since.

Every issue contains a Glossary, a Shortcuts column, and the last page is an in depth look at various woodworking topics, like collets, squares, drill bits, and chisels.

Just as impressive is the complete lack of advertisement. There are no ads in Woodworking Magazine, ensuring the lack of bias in tool tests and making for a much more enjoyable read. When space fillers are required, various insprirational quotes regarding woodworking, work, and life in general are used and are a fantastic part of the magazine. One of my favourites is credited to College of the Redwoods graduate Tony Konovaloff. "The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me".

I read the book from cover to cover, and it was a pleasure. It is full of information I've seen nowhere else. I was so impressed with it's content and it's lack of filler I bought the second volume.

Once we're done it, I'll be picking up the third.

Five Minute Bench 11

2010-08-12T16:43:00.001-07:00

Current Work

2010-08-07T01:52:00.000-07:00

My latest project takes me out of the shop for a little while.

Please stand by.

Current Work

2010-07-28T20:08:00.001-07:00

Bar Stools, Walnut

New Gets

2010-07-25T07:23:00.000-07:00

I do a lot of arcs in my work, getting a nice fair sweep has always been a challenge. A straight grained cutoff from a long rip has been my flexible drawing aid for a long time, but it's a two man job, one to hand to trace the line, and three to hold the cutoff flexed. My patience with this method is at an end, though, so I bought Lee Valleys Drawing Bow.

The bow is a 1/8" x 1" x 48" long strip of glass-reinforced plastic with a nylon strap.

The slide buckle on the strap allows the bow to be flexed and retain its position.

Lightly clamping it to the work improves performance.

The curve was drawn, the bow flipped, and the curve drawn again. The flex is not perfectly symmetrical, but at least as good as a wood guide.

I don't like the rounded corners, it makes clamping difficult.

I am hesitant to recommend this tool. I don't like the rounded corners, and the buckle system could be re-designed. It's awkward to use and hard to control. Precise adjustments are difficult. Shallow arcs don't put enough tension on the bow, resulting in flexing and error while drawing. A permanently scribed and inked centre line would be nice, too, marking the apex and making layout easier. The centre line is necessary as a reference point when making small arcs with a partial bow. I don't think, as it sits, that this is a $29 tool.

WANTED!

New Gets

2010-07-21T06:30:00.000-07:00

I attended an auction over the weekend, there was plenty to entice my bottom-feeding tendencies.

I picked up some lumber, a large plank of an exotic rosewood, species, anyone?

I also picked up these three ebony boards.

The top one is interesting. It has a paper label from an Indian company.

Jan 78 is written on the reverse side.

After some online study, I believe this board is Ceylon Ebony, Diospyros ebenum. The Gaboon Ebony I've used is a brittle, splintery wood like Wenge. This board reminds me a lot of graphite, smooth, slippery, fine grained, and a rich, sparkling black. The handplane made a peculiar gritty noise as it passed through the fibers, I wonder how long the edge will hold up.

Most of my ebony goes into inlays and plugging dowel holes, but I think I'll be hanging onto this plank. An instrument fretboard perhaps? The lumber was $13 a board, I probably shoud've bought more.

I also got an interesting box lot. I got what I think is a vintage Delta Homecraft mitre gauge and a Veritas saw blade truing disc, which I'm looking forward to giving a try out although I think may be too much of a hassle to use . Also there was a pair of Freud shaper guide bearings, and in my bid to have the most complete vintage Delta shaper in the world a set of eight cutters in their original boxes.
$15

My most expensive purchase of the day is a set of three Dazor double flourescent bulb swing arm lamps, two in white, and one in brown.

They were $10 each, a bargain in my opinion. I'll probably mount one over the sanders, as it's dark in that corner of the shop, and one will go over my future lathe. The brown one however, matches the brown bell shade one I have on my bench, so I think they should be buddies.

Did you find it?

WANTED!

Bar Stools- Oil and Lacquer

2010-07-16T17:38:00.000-07:00

The stools have been oiled with tinted Watco, then sprayed with two coats of lacquer.

The upholsterer is on vacation. :(

WANTED!

New Gets

2010-07-13T18:33:00.000-07:00

My birthday was last Sunday, my family and I spent the day at PionEra, the annual celebration of prairie culture hosted by the Saskatoon Western Development Museum. We enjoyed several demonstrations including Blacksmithing. While there my four year old daughter bought for me, saying, "My Daddy is a woodworker, and he needs nails." .

She was right.

WANTED!

New Gets

2010-07-10T13:40:00.001-07:00

I love old woodworking machinery, and I really appreciate the people who take good care of them. One person like that is Brad, the shop teacher in a local high school. His machines are in great order, I bought their old shaper.

Brad has since called me back twice for parts he's found. At the end of the school year during a clean up he found this for me:

That's two more spindles and a tie rod, the small wrench, table insert, hold down spring to complete the set, and a large number of assorted correct screws and washers. Also in the box is the holddown portion of the shaper mitre gauge. This machine gets more and more complete!

I like the vintage box, too.

WANTED!

New Gets

2010-07-10T13:29:00.000-07:00

I got a package from Stephen Thomas this week.

In it was a set of collets for my hollow chisel mortiser.

If I had SMTs skills I wouldn't leave the shop.

WANTED!

Current Work

2010-07-10T13:25:00.000-07:00

Fireplace, Red Oak

WANTED!

Five Minute Bench 10

2010-07-10T13:19:00.000-07:00

WANTED!

New Gets

2010-07-10T12:53:00.000-07:00

While working on the stools, one thing became clear; my old spokeshave couldn't work. The mouth was far too big, tearout was inevitable. I decided to purchase the Veritas spokeshave in the flat and round bottoms, with the A2 iron.

The shave is very well made. Highlights include the lever cap.

The iron is an impressive 1/8" thick, and dwarfs the vintage blade.

The mouth is already slight, but with the use of the included shims the mouth is a sliver, compared again to the old shave.

These attributes, added to its heavy body, result in a shave that cuts very cleanly.

The round and flat bottom shaves are very complementary.

It doesn't take much of a curve before the flat bottom stops cutting.

The round bottom is a little more difficult to control. It's use is for the inside curves only.

After a quick honing, both shaves handled this curly maple with ease.

WANTED!

Bar Stools- Assembly

2010-07-10T09:12:00.000-07:00

Assembly begins with the preparation of the parts.

Saw marks are removed, and other milling marks as well.

The backs are assembled.

Front legs are cleaned up.

Fronts are assembled.

The backs are cleaned up.

A block plane and spokeshaves are used to fair the joinery.

I used my old shave to hog off big thick curls.

The tight mouthed Veritas shave leaves a beautiful surface after.

After the back rails are shaped, the back is rabbeted for the upholstery. The rabbeting bit is touchy, requiring a sharp, clean edge, and constant climb cutting.

I marked one with my initials and the year.

The fronts and backs are joined.

Corner blocks are made and marked, as they are location specific. Holes are drilled and counterbored for seat screws.

Done!

WANTED!

Bar Stools- Rungs

2010-07-03T09:41:00.000-07:00

Rungs are important structural part of any chair, but even more so on a tall stool. The lengthened legs put increased leverage on the seat joinery, and the front rung serves as a footrest and as a mounting aid. I cut mine from 6/4 stock, as they need to be a full 1" x 1 1/4". I try to choose for the straightest grain on these parts.

The angles are found in the same manner as the seat backs. The portions already made are clamped up and traced.

The part is drawn.

Angles are found with the bevel gauge.

Same goes for the front legs.

Joinery is located directly from the leg.

My Veritas Sliding Bevel is one of my favourite layout tools. As far as I'm concerned, its cam lock is the only appropriate method for securing the blade on a tool of this nature. The blade is 1" wide, making tenon layout easy.

Nine stools, IKEA flat pack style:

Dry fit:

WANTED!

Bar Stools- Working the Angles

2010-07-01T08:42:00.000-07:00

The next part is the back seat strecher. This part determines the angles for the rest of the back joinery. I start with a full size drawing of the top of the seat. This is my first layout, I decided the seat looked too square, the front rail was lengthened by 2". Unfortunately I neglected to photograph the updated plan.

The back legs are angled inward. This splays the legs for a stable footprint, and gives the back a outward and upward look that is visually pleasing and physically comfortable. The part dimensions are taken directly from my drawing.

The back legs and seat rail are clamped together and traced to find the dimensions and angles for the seat back crest rails.

This is a photo of the way I determined the rung angle, but I used the same technique for the crest rails.

These parts will be curved, so they are milled from 8/4 stock.

The parts are dry assembled, and the profile of the leg is traced onto the crest rail. The top is tablesawn to the same angle as the leg. An arc is then drawn from a template, and bandsawn. The amplitude of this arc is 1/4".

Because the back of the leg is not parallel to the front, the bandsaw table is tilted to make that curve.

The bandsaw marks are removed at the edge sander.

Working from the full size drawings of the seat side and top, the side rails are cut. Having your knees slightly higher than your hips is important for long term comfort; this seat will rise 1/2" over it's length.

The front seat rails are cut next, and now I have a model to assemble and test for comfort.

WANTED!

Bar Stools- Mortise, Taper, Mortise

2010-06-27T11:26:00.000-07:00

Next I mill up the front legs. This is the last point at which lefts and rights are interchangeable. I select for the best colour and grain to be exposed and put sapwood and defects to the inside. Not only are they less visible there, but the two inside planes of the legs get tapered, so there is a good chance flaws will be sawn off. The bottoms are marked with the chosen orientation.

I don't use the Leigh FMT often, but I really like it for oddball joinery- angled and compound mortise and tenons, or for tenoning parts like bent laminated skirts that don't register properly for the tablesaw.

The mortises are cut in the legs, in the locations that aren't tapered- the seat and back support rails.

Next I make a taper jig. I've used commercial and homemade versions of the commercial hinged jig, but I find them fussy to setup. I can make a custom jig in less time.

I start with a scrap piece of plywood, a little longer than my part.

I draw the taper on the stock, put the cut line on the edge of the plywood, and screw down a fence and a rear stop. If the fence or the stop overhangs the plywood edge, I send it back though the tablesaw to trim it flush.

The jig is then sent through the saw, which hasn't been changed since first cutting the plywood base. I am tapering both inside faces, it is important to do them in the correct order. First they are cut one mortise down, the other to the blade. Next, one mortise is up, the other to the blade. Doing it the other way around results in an already tapered face registering against the jig bed, throwing off the angle of the second face. The front legs are getting the same amount of taper on each side, but the leg itself is rectangular by 1/8" of an inch. A shim is used to compensate.

The saw pushes the part against the stop, I am comfortable leaving it loose on the jig, but if you like a hold down clamp like a De-Sta-Co can be screwed to the jig fence and used to hold everything secure.

The leg is rotated and tapered on the second face.

Next I taper the back legs. Using the same jig, I send the left legs through.

Because of the shape of the legs, the jig needs to be altered to cut the rights.

I would highly reccomend the use of hold downs for this process. I didn't, and the procedure was a little dicey. The leg need to be held down against the jig bed and the side fence, the jig needs to be held tight to the tablesaw fence, the whole thing needs to be slid past the blade while cutting forces are wanting to push the leg away from the end stop.

Now that the legs have been tapered, the mortises for the rungs can be cut, perpendicular to the face of the leg.

WANTED!

Bar Stools- Back Legs

2010-06-24T19:56:00.000-07:00

My latest project is a set of eight walnut bar stools. I'll be making a poplar model as well, as a guinea pig for machine setups. I feel the most critical part is the back legs. They are the starting point for the geometry for the rest of the chair.

They can be cut out of a wide board, side by side or staggered to minimize waste, but I prefer to save wide lumber for tabletops. I cut my legs from narrow 8/4 stock, saving the cutoff for smaller parts like rungs or rails.

I mill it down to 1 5/8" thick, a dimension that works well for the important seat joinery. One edge is jointed straight as a reference against the mitre saw fence. There the ends are cut square and parallel, and all parts are the same length due to the use of a stop block.

A sample leg is made and the profile is traced onto the blanks. The layout is chosen first trying to maintain a long grain line through the part, then by colour.

Part of the strategy of maximizing your lumbers potential is to imagine the part inside the board. The leg shown will have only a small amount of sapwood showing after it gets an inside taper.

Next comes the lower front of the leg. This will be where the side joinery meets the back leg, so it must be true. It will also be the reference for the rest of the legs profile.

I bandsaw slowly and carefully to the line

Then joint straight and square to the side.

After a check against my sample leg to confirm the accuracy of my drawing the back of the leg is bandsawn.

A pile of legs or a pile of arms?

Using my sample leg and a flush trim bit, a pattern is made for the leg profile. The fence registers against the front of the leg, my jointed reference surface. This ensures the legs are consistently sized and orientated.

Climb cutting when appropriate, the backs of the legs are cleaned up.

After another check against the sample the top fronts of the legs are sawn and routed.

Again, the legs are registered off the jointed face. The cut is made from the middle of the leg to the top, to avoid going against the general grain direction.

WANTED!

New Gets

2010-06-12T09:50:00.000-07:00

I finally pulled the trigger on the Veritas Low Angle Block Plane. It is essentially the same tool as the Standard Block Plane, but with a bed angle of 12° instead of 20°. I chose the 25° A1 blade, for a cutting angle of 37°, perfect for working end grain. It comes wrapped in corrosion resistant paper and with complete instruction.

Straight out of the box it leaves an excellent surface on softwood endgrain.

Hardwood endgrain such as this White Oak piece are no problem at all.

The plane is typical Veritas; accurately machined surfaces, beautifully knured brass, and innovative touches like set screws for laterally locking the blade. The Norris type adjuster is accurate and easy to use. Also available are an optional knob and tote for turning the block into a small smoothing plane. Replacement blades ground to 38° and 50° are available for this application, as well as a toothed blade for the most difficult grain.

The iron works straight from the package, but for best results a light honing is all that is needed. This blade comes factory lapped, I honed the back but did not touch the face. The results are pleasing.

Full length, full width shaving, maple end grain.

BFFs.

WANTED!

New Gets

2010-06-06T11:50:00.000-07:00

New to the workbench is a Veritas Router Plane.

It comes with three cutters, 1/4" and 1/2" straight, and 1/2" pointed, as well as a blade holder for honing, and a complete instruction manual.

The heart of the feed system is a fixed threaded shaft with a flange to retain the collar. The collar can revolve around the shaft, permitting lateral and bullnose use. Above that are two brass jam nuts that act as a depth stop for the depth adjustment knob.

The locking knob is beautifully knurled, with a spring loaded plunger.

This plunger allows the locking knob to be loosened enough to adjust the cutting depth while maintaining some pressure on the iron. Loosened further, it allows the collar to extend to permit the disengagement of the iron.

Out of the box the cutters would make a shaving in curly maple, but it was very rough. Without a mouth to close, this was too much to ask for these blades. After a honing, however, they cut a beautiful shaving and left a gleaming polished surface.

The depth adjustment knob is fantastic, very sensitive and precise.

The plane itself is very nicely machined.

I also purchased the optional fence. It is $8 cheaper when you buy as a set. It may or may not be useful, but it's nice to have all the "accessories". It too is well made, although I would have preferred a knurled knob to the slotted screw mounting fastener. It is reversible for straight or curved work.

I've wanted one of these for quite some time, and after the initial use I'm glad I made the purchase. Like all Veritas tools, it's well made, functional, and beautiful. It will be a useful additon to the shop.

WANTED!

New Gets

2010-06-04T18:48:00.000-07:00

I picked up a couple of sets of Lee Valley's Multi-Wedge Shims.

I first bought a set about two and a half years ago. I felt a little odd about buying something the shop generates as scrap. However, the wide face for lightly hammering on works better than home-made wedges. The polypropylene is kind to soft MDF moldings, and, when used as a trio, will remove trim without damage.

These are the remmnants of my first set after a large kitchen remodel. They hold up well, and the tip can be reformed with a file. Also, the $4.95 price tag means you can leave the one that fell behind the corner cabinet for the next renovater.

WANTED!

WANTED!

2010-05-26T19:25:00.000-07:00

1986 Lee Valley Fine Woodworking Tools Catalogue

Help me complete my collection!

New Gets

2010-05-21T20:51:00.000-07:00

My Uncle-in-Law gave me this Sargent & Co. Ajax Bow Saw.

It's maple, and there are traces of green, red, and white paint. When I get some time I think I would enjoy making a copy. The broken stretcher and front blade mount are fatal problems for this saw, but I really like the turnbuckle tensioning system. For now the saw decorates the shop wall, but I may "borrow" this when I make a new one.

I haven't done much research yet, but it looks like Sargent & Co was based in New Haven, Connecticut, and made a variety of things from handplanes to cowbells.

Thanks, Uncle Bryan!

UPDATE

While looking into this further, I've come across this copy of a 1911 Sargent catalogue. I can't find an exact match for the saw, but I did find this ad for the Ajax extra heavy saw rod.

In the Spring

2010-05-21T20:49:00.000-07:00

..a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love, and woodworkers can spray projects outdoors.

12' 8/4 poplar joist cover/ shelf, two coats of lacquer. Sprayed the morning after a rain, to keep down the local poplar fuzz.

New Gets

2010-05-19T18:01:00.000-07:00

$20 bought me a Stanley 358A Mitre Box yesterday.

Its blade is 2" longer and 1" taller than the one from my 2246A Box.

I like using these on location. A cardboard box under the Workmate I clamp it to catches all the dust. That and the lack of noise mean I can cut indoors, so it becomes quicker to use it rather than a powered Mitre Saw outside.

On the shelf awaiting a cleaning and sharpening.

Woodworkers Safety Week

2010-05-13T17:05:00.000-07:00

I think the best way to keep safe is to learn safe working habits early. I also think the biggest obstacle to learning safe habits is ridicule. I have never been at a workplace or jobsite where I have not gotten some flack for putting on my glasses before making every cut. I have two responses.

"Oh, I'm not wearing them to impress you." is the first.

If it continues, I look them in the eye and say,

"Look, I care more about my eyesight then your opinion."

If you are ever in a position where someone is trying to make you look bad for being safe, please use my lines, they've always worked for me. Do you have any snappy retorts for the workplace fool? If so let me hear it in the comments box below!

Saw Stopped!

2010-05-06T21:06:00.000-07:00

In April Great Western Saw held an open house with several reps in attendance. I shot a video of the Saw Stop demo with my phone. The rep in the video makes me laugh, his body language is pretty clear regarding his comfortability level with a tablesaw. The "Brent" he mentions is Brent Loucks, a local DJ.

Thanks to Jon and the rest of the staff for putting on this event, and for their excellent customer service.

Refinish

2010-05-05T18:53:00.000-07:00

I had a twenty year old table come in over the weekend for a refinish. These jobs work well as gap fillers between large projects or as a mindless task to warm up with on a Monday morning.

The table is disassembled, the skirts carefully marked for orientation and the hardware collected into a labeled container.

I used to use chemical strippers but have since switched to sanding the old finish off. A worn belt on the stroke sander works faster, cheaper, and with a better result. Furthermore, I don't have to deal with the chemical.

The top is then clamped to my benchtop and the edge profile is cleaned.

I use a card scraper to remove the old lacquer and to clean right into the inside corner of the fillet, then a piece of sandpaper finishes the job.

The entire edge is done, the top inspected closely and the flaws marked. The top is put back on the stroke sander for a final clean up.

A coat of Watco Fruitwood danish oil is applied, the original colour. If this were any other species I would go ahead and spray two coats of lacquer, but because red oak is so pourous I need to wait. The surface needs to be wiped down periodically as oil seeps out then finally cures.

After the oil has dried I spray a coat of post-cat nitrocellulose lacquer. Twenty minutes later I sand it with a 220 sanding sponge, and give it a second coat.

Assembled and ready for another twenty years!

Current Work

2010-05-05T18:45:00.000-07:00

Dining Table
Walnut
Base by David Wigelsworth

Current Work

2010-04-18T18:36:00.001-07:00

Fireplace, White Oak

Happiness is

2010-04-16T07:03:00.001-07:00

the first warm day in spring, 366 bf of prime black walnut, and a trip to the toy store.

Bench Making- The Specs

2010-04-15T20:47:00.000-07:00

White beech, steamed beech, ebony, sugar maple drawer sides, baltic birch plywood drawer bottoms.

Veritas Tucker and Veritas Twin Screw vises.

460 lbs empty, 600+ lbs with tools

Main work done weekends May-September 2009, completed March 2010.

The Blogs

Bench Making- The Carcass
Bench Making- The Legs and Base
Bench Making- Top Dovetails
Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker
Bench Making- The Top
Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw
Bench Making- The Drawers
Bench Making- Final Assembly
Bench Making- Completed Work
Bench Making- The Specs

Bench Making- Completed Work

2010-04-14T17:39:00.000-07:00

The Blogs

Bench Making- The Carcass
Bench Making- The Legs and Base
Bench Making- Top Dovetails
Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker
Bench Making- The Top
Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw
Bench Making- The Drawers
Bench Making- Final Assembly
Bench Making- Completed Work
Bench Making- The Specs

Bench Making- Final Assembly

2010-04-12T19:43:00.000-07:00

The leg tenons have been drilled and kerfed for wedges.

I put several layers of plywood across the base, and placed the top on the stack. The tenons were guided home as the plywood was removed. They were glued and ebony wedged.

The compartment holds spare drawer slides, vise parts, insruction manuals, and replacement pencil sharpeners and blades.

I added a strip of end grain. My top board as well as all four base panels were made from this impressive beech slab.

My good friend Don Kondra turned matching handles for my vises. They're made from the remainder of the curly board used to make the drawer fronts. Brass accents and an ebony knob.

To make it easier to clean, I added a molding to the interior of the tool tray. A small cove to eliminate the interior corner.

The Blogs

Bench Making- The Carcass
Bench Making- The Legs and Base
Bench Making- Top Dovetails
Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker
Bench Making- The Top
Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw
Bench Making- The Drawers
Bench Making- Final Assembly
Bench Making- Completed Work
Bench Making- The Specs

Bench Making- The Drawers

2010-04-11T10:47:00.000-07:00

My benches first project was its own drawers.

The drawer boxes are resawn hard maple, the sides are book matched on each drawer, and the backs are bookmatched left to right. The drawer joinery is hand sawn, through dovetails on the back corners, and half blinds with rabbet on the front.

I found a nicely figured board of 8/4 beech to use as my drawer fronts. It was resawn and carefully laid out.

I didn't want to have protruding pulls to catch on power cords, so I used Lee Valley's Finger Grip Bit to form the pulls.

I used six different Forestner bits in a scrap of Baltic Birch ply to make a template. I attached a 3/4" o.d. bearing and a lock ring to the shaft of the bit. This combination cuts a hole with the bottom the same size as the template, but with an outer hole 3/8" in diameter less than the template. I used a 3/4" forestner bit to drill pilot holes in the four smallest drawers to avoid damaging the rim as I plunged the bit. I kept those pilot holes a little shallow so the router would remove the mark left by the forestner bits centre spur. The other eight drawers pulls are large enough so that I was able to keep the router bit well away from the rim. I didn't withdraw the bit while it was rotating, and I kept the router moving until the bit stopped so the bottom of the hole wouldn't get a burned spot.

I like this solution, it’s considerably cheaper than metal pulls, and the look picks up on the circular dog holes. Graduating the holes meant I can get two fingers into the pulls for the heavier drawers.

The drawers are given two coats of polyurethane and the full exension side mount slides are attached. I dislike the look of slides but I like the feel of a heavy tool drawer on ball bearings.

Installed!

The Blogs

Bench Making- The Carcass
Bench Making- The Legs and Base
Bench Making- Top Dovetails
Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker
Bench Making- The Top
Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw
Bench Making- The Drawers
Bench Making- Final Assembly
Bench Making- Completed Work
Bench Making- The Specs

Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw

2010-04-10T19:56:00.000-07:00

The end vise is a 13 1/2" wide 8/4 beech board ripped up the middle to show bookmatched grain along the top. One of the halves was dovetailed into my top frame, and the other half tapered and drilled for dog holes.

I built in a pencil sharpener, an idea I hope will save me a minute a day for the rest of my career. Searching online led me to KUM brand sharpeners, when I saw the beech model I knew I had it. I got mine from pencilthings.com, and was treated very well.

To inlay it I used cyanoacrylate glue to tack it in place. I then outlined it thoroughly with a knife. A sharp blow knocked it off again, and a chisel was used to define the border. I used a small straight cutter in a laminate trimmer to hollow out a space as close to the outline as I dared. A chisel cleaned up the recess, and a sharp brad point drill made the access hole.

The tail vise is a modified Veritas Twin Screw.

The two screws are linked by a length of chain. The only part about the Twin Screw I don't like is the twin handles. The unused handle bangs around, and when your screws are as close together as mine are, they interfere with each other.

I set the vise up as per instruction, and it worked great. One at a time I backed out the setscrews in the slave screws sprocket, drilled a shallow hole in the shaft, then deeply reseated the setscrews. I then removed the springpin in the handle yolk, and cut off the protruding shaft.

Now I have only one handle, and when I pull the pin the left screw stops turning. I wanted a tail vise the full width of my bench, but the tool tray prevented me from putting a screw close to the back rail. Putting the master screw next to the tool tray makes it act like a horizontal leg vise when clamping stock to the right of it.

A custom cover was made to cover the chainworks from 8/4 steamed beech with light curl.

I like to clamp between the screws, dovetailing there is perfect. I inlayed ebony guides for slopes 1:5 and 1:8, it's a quick reference for my bevel gauge or to align my stock for sawing.

The Blogs

Bench Making- The Carcass
Bench Making- The Legs and Base
Bench Making- Top Dovetails
Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker
Bench Making- The Top
Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw
Bench Making- The Drawers
Bench Making- Final Assembly
Bench Making- Completed Work
Bench Making- The Specs

Bench Making- The Top

2010-04-09T20:03:00.000-07:00

My top glueup started with the dovetail between the doublewide front rail and the end board, my end vise rear jaw. Then the top board was glued to the front rail as it was installed into the end board mortise, and pegged to make a breadboard end. The top board is a single plank of 8/4 Beech 15 9/16" wide, from the same board that provided the four base panels.

The rear rail and end board joint was glued up, and the floor of the tool tray was glued to the rear rail as it was installed into it's end board mortise.

The benchtop is designed to allow the top board to be supported while still allowing for movement. Seasonal differences are absorbed by the joint between the tool tray floor and the centre board.

The centre board is the glued to the top board, the lip of the tool tray in the kerf.

I then flipped the bench top over, and attached three strongbacks, thick boards with slotted screw slots to allow for wood movement used to keep the top flat. I used dovetails to attach them to the front rail. Two are inline with the front leg mortises, and the third is centered. The one beside the front vise is mortised for a vise support.

The somewhat ugly mortise is for a NOS Record pop up stop that I won at auction while I was building the bench.

The vise support is tennoned into the strongback and the end board, and is glued to the front rail and the top.

The end is then glued on, and given a test run.

Out of order photos, the top glued up on the dry fit base.

I have always wanted to letter carve, but never had. I seized the opportunity to do it here, following the directions given in Fine Woodworking Magazine #187, which is accompanied by this video. I carved in my intials and the year of manufacture of the bench.

The Blogs

Bench Making- The Carcass
Bench Making- The Legs and Base
Bench Making- Top Dovetails
Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker
Bench Making- The Top
Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw
Bench Making- The Drawers
Bench Making- Final Assembly
Bench Making- Completed Work
Bench Making- The Specs

Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker

2010-04-07T19:24:00.000-07:00

The front rail is the backbone of my bench top. It was a single 9" wide 8/4 beech board. I ripped it up the middle, and milled up the parts. It was then taped together to show bookmatched side grain along the top. The corner joinery was cut and I turned to mounting the vise.

The Tucker vise is meant to be surface mounted, but I want the rear jaw to be slightly proud of the front rail, so I can use the front rail as support. It's a patternmakers' vise, so to allow its movement I need to remove a lot of material.

I started by finding the middle of the vises centre shaft, this is the point to attach a router compass to. It was below the rail, so I needed a temporary centre.

I screwed a piece of MDF to the backside of the front rail board. To it I attached a block the same thickness as the rail. I then attached a router compass. I varied the length of the beam several times. Every time the bit depth was set by a tracing of the rear jaw on the top of the front rail.

This photo shows the MDF support, the four holes in the top corners are screw holes from where it was attached to the backside of the rail. The drawn circle represents the area needed by the vises’ screw and guides. The horizontal line represents the bottom of the rail. The vertical line on the block is the vises’ centre line, the hole is the centre of the vises’ movement. The beam shows several holes, that is from the number of passes made.

After hogging out the majority of the waste, I used a gouge and carved the steps away. I them mounted the vise and put it through all of its movements. Everywhere it left a mark on the rail was carved away until I had removed just the wood interfering with its use.

The Blogs

Bench Making- The Carcass
Bench Making- The Legs and Base
Bench Making- Top Dovetails
Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker
Bench Making- The Top
Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw
Bench Making- The Drawers
Bench Making- Final Assembly
Bench Making- Completed Work
Bench Making- The Specs

Bench Making- Top Dovetails

2010-04-06T16:31:00.000-07:00

My benchtop has an 8/4 Beech frame, 4 1/2" wide. The corners of this framework are dovetailed together. I cut the joint on the bandsaw, then chopped out the waste by hand.

A jig is prepared for the bandsaw, an MDF scrap with a mitre bar attached at a 1:8 angle.

A front stop and a fence at 90° is fixed to the top side. A stop is clamped to the table, this ensures the cuts are all the same depth.

My stock is then placed on the jig, tight to the side and front fence. The saw is started and the jig is slid forward until it makes contact with the stop block. The board is then pulled back and flipped to saw the other side. This allowed me to make two cuts per joint per set up, and it kept the joint symmetrical.

All photos are of test scrap, the same dimensions as the actual rails except for length.

I then screwed a spacer to the jig, tight to the fence, and the cuts are repeated.

A second spacer is screwed to the jig to finish the cuts for the three tails.

The pins are made by tilting the table to the correct angle, and clamping a stop on the fence. The fence is moved to cut each pin.

The waste is chopped by hand.

SUPPORT HEAVY STOCK.

I didn't support my long rails while at the bandsaw. They are 75" x 4 1/2" 8/4 beech, and I had to exert a lot of pressure to keep the end on the bandsaw table. My left hand slipped on the freshly jointed surface, and I nearly lost my little finger to the blade. As it is I have a large scar. Support your stock.

The Blogs

Bench Making- The Carcass
Bench Making- The Legs and Base
Bench Making- Top Dovetails
Bench Making- Mounting the Tucker
Bench Making- The Top
Bench Making- Modifying the Twin Screw
Bench Making- The Drawers
Bench Making- Final Assembly
Bench Making- Completed Work
Bench Making- The Specs